The wiper blades of the Swift were trying as hard as they could but slowly lost to the driving rains that hit us square off south-west.
The sky rumbled away as the thunderous clouds showed the iridescent glow in streaks through the clouds which were deep and dark.
Driving the South Eastern Highways🛣️
The speedometer was quivering at fifty kilometers an hour as the Swift cleaved her way through the squall hugging the slight curves of the NH-16, the fifteen hundred kilometers long national highway that connected Kolkata to Chennai.
We had started our drive for Kolkata to Bhitarkanika road trip.
We were on our way to a smaller version of Sunderbans in the Indian state of Orissa/Odisha, called Bhitarkanika National Park Odisha
The drive was wet and we were unable to cover ground at speeds as at places, the smooth concrete road was had a layer of water, prone to a skid or aquaplaning. Added to it, the ever unruly local traffic poured over the road from nowhere with no sense of direction or, safety.
Rain Washed Roads🌧️🛣️
The route was almost straight till Bhadrak from Calcutta and then made a slight left curve where the Paradeep->Chandikhole road met NH-16. The odometer showed we had covered two hundred and eighty kilometers.
The National Highway system in India is a well-built network and NH-16 was no exception. No doubts the roads are comparable to anywhere in the world in terms of its road surface and text-based boards with markings. Only if a driver is in a terrible state of trance, the distances and directions will be missed.
Broken Country Roads🕳️
From Chandikhole, our love for the road started to diminish and the road started to turn into a test track for the car. Gaping holes and craters were plenty and the speed dropped to about ten to fifteen kilometers an hour. The hatchback which we were driving, not being an SUV, the ground clearance was limited and that was a major concern.
Slush and medium-sized rainwater filled ponds and stones, speckled the uneven track.
We drove steadily at a curtailed pace. The scenery that was around us was colorful and astonishing; grey clouds rolled on top, multiple shades of green enveloped the light pinkish unmetalled road with puddles of water that had adapted a brown color of the bleak sky and the greenery around.
However, the tar was present in a few sections of the road and the car hugged them with slipping grip and we made progress.
Smell of the Seas🌊💨
We had a few glimpses of a wide river as the country road undulated over the broken green carpet.
From a local, we got the name – Brahmani, the river was quite wide and it has meandered several times on its way to the Bay of Bengal and we reached it at Raj Nagar. Crossed a bridge and entered the wildlife of Bhitarkanika. The air scented rancid and a touch of salt could be felt. Typically, the seaside or the banks of a river and their adjoining areas wear a smell of fish, fishing nets as there’s no dearth of breeze.
River Resort🌅
The excitement was palpable beyond words. The river on our left was calm and flowed with stoic determination nourishing all it touched.
The place we had decided to stay for two nights came up to our right. The location was quite extraordinary. A metaled decorated wrought iron sat at the entrance, a narrow drive-in went into the compound which had trees over it. A corrugated shaded reception area greeted us with a large opening for guests to have dinner. We would be staying at the Estuarine Village Resort.
The odometer had clocked four hundred and six kilometers from Kolkata. The last hundred kilometers were treacherous.
Elusive Riverside Creatures 🐊🐍
We saw the first touch of non-human living beings, numerous holes stood over the muddy ground with their soldiers around them, the tiny red crabs. A slight movement and they vanished through the holes.
The night was eerie – the sound of crickets, occasional sounds of water splashes, and numerous bird calls drifting in the night wind made us tired but alert.
Our sixth sense told us to be careful every step of the way.
Tent cottages 🏡
The tents only had a plinth about a foot thick from the ground, the structure was of a canvas. Two large camp cots well furnished placed with a fan at one corner. A partitioned section at the back made the washroom within the tent itself making the stay, homely.
We found the contraption not luxurious, nevertheless comfortable. A small table on the far end had mineral water ready for use, blissfully they were cold and without a second’s delay, we dived on the bed to stretch.
It was well past evening when we had reached.
Once the sun was down not much we could have done with the darkness of the night. There were dim lights on the roads, powered by a solar battery and were hopelessly inadequate to dispel the darkness.
Nights Brought Danger🌙🔥
The Brahmani river was not far away and its large inhabitants were known to be curious. We were told to head back to the tents and keep away from loitering outside once we had finished our dinner. We were the adventurous kind and were taught a lesson, an hour after we were informed.
The dinner was not a five-star hotel offering, especially in these areas; however, was basic and scrumptious with a lingering taste of the country cuisine.
A travel seemed to be incomplete without the food getting described.
Country Cuisine🍲🥘
Well, here goes the grub …
As we were all travel-fatigued, sleep knocked us but not without a spot of gut numbing experience which will stay in our memory for years. There were paddy fields encircling the resort complex and among many visitors, rats were rampant to forge on the produce.
Lurking Dangers🌙👀
As we were making our way to our tent, out of instinct perhaps, we had our mobile phone up front with the torchlight on.
About a meter away, a hustle and a scream broke the silence around. The rat was half consumed, a cobra or a rat snake, difficult to recognize, quite thick with the dark surface reflecting the torchlight was all bunched up with its belly creating an arc was slowly coiling. Other than the dying screams of the rat and visible movement, nothing was discernible.
We looked on frozen, tiptoed backwards slowly as the path ahead was unequivocally belonged to the serpent. The official who was behind us looked at it, turned away with no effect at all, it was perhaps a daily sight for him. He also did not have any torch as he hurried away.
Nature reminded us with a light nudge of its superb presence in a wild territory. Gulping a glass of water, we lifted ourselves on to the cot and drifted away in the deeper levels of the murky night.
Morning of Adventure⛺
The morning was overcast with a faint yellow sun peeping through the tree branches. The sun played hide and seek between the layered formation of cumulonimbus clouds. Spectacular scenery enthralled the eyes.
The Brahmani river looked even wider as we walked up to it. Dark smudges of clay and mud smeared the river bank.
The Brahmani River🌊
The official asked us to stay on the road and not to venture out near the river as inquisitive crocodiles have a habit of exploring the banks for a quick an easy meal. Remember, we were in Bhitarkanika crocodile sanctuary.
It would be unfortunate to lose life well before the exploration had started.
Roaming Crocodiles🌊🐊
We stayed in the car and savored the nature’s continuous painting. At one spot, we saw the roaming crocs, got out and with utmost care we scoured the river for any of these marauding sleek killers, we settled with the lens capturing these priceless moments.
The bank of the river was broken and was being continuously eaten away by the river. The carpeted grass and mud laced the edge and were quite difficult to walk as we slipped and our shoes glued too, making us dance with our arms lifted in space.
We still ventured out for a closer look.
We got back to the car after our initial first sighting of a crocodile.
Our next stop was the checkpoint called “Khola” which we had crossed, late afternoon, the day before.
Steamer Ride to Remember⛴️
The resort had reserved for us a seven-hour boat ride which would be taking a small group comprising of ten to twelve people through the waterways of Bhitarkanika wildlife sanctuary. More people meant the boat should be big, sturdy and would withstand the unwanted lashes of a croc if they got interested.
After all, everyone wants to know visitors closely, why would they be an exception. We turned the car and headed for the boat excursion point with a feeling of overflowing expectation.
Do you feel the eagerness and the anticipation like we did?
What happened next …
Join us as we navigated the creeks on a Bhitarkanika boat safari in
“🌿 Bhitarkanika: Part 2 – Untamed Rivers & Crocodile Kingdom 🐊🌊🦜“
| Distance from Kolkata | Total Distance:430–450 km (depending on the entry point to Bhitarkanika) Driving Time: 9–10 hours (without long breaks) |
| How to reach Bhitarkanika from Kolkata | Kolkata → Kharagpur → Balasore → Bhadrak → Chandbali → Bhitarkanika National Highway: NH16 (Golden Quadrilateral, smooth 4/6-lane highway till Bhadrak) After Bhadrak, turn towards Chandbali / Jayanagar / Rajnagar → local roads → entry jetty (Khola or Gupti) for Bhitarkanika. |
| Best time to visit Bhitarkanika | November to February |
| What you can expect | Great time for wildlife spotting – saltwater crocodiles, migratory birds, turtles |
| Self-drive from Kolkata to Odisha tips | Start early morning (5–6 AM) from Kolkata to avoid NH16 traffic. Carry snacks/water — facilities are limited after Bhadrak. Refuel at Balasore or Bhadrak — fewer pumps later. Book accommodation inside/near the sanctuary in advance (eco-cottages 🛖⛺) Boat safaris are mandatory to explore crocodiles & mangroves 🐊🌿 |
SPITFIRE GAUTAM 