Kumartuli, the land of the iconic potters of Kolkata

Well, in Bengal, when you utter the word “Durga Puja”, the state’s inhabitants droll with love, affection and continue to skitter animatedly for the five day festivities.

In course of the five day festival, millions visit thousands of these beautiful scaffoldings or pandals as locally known, to see the goddess in her absolute splendor.

We too had walked miles into the night just like others.

Goddess Durga idol at Kumartoli, or Kumortoli, Kolkata, West Bengal, India by gautam lahiri — *The Devi Durga taking shape at Kumartoli*

Who creates them?

I was utterly enticed to learn the backend story of the Durga puja- Where do these idols come from? Who makes them to instill such life in them?

We are all set to take you to the hub where these idols of the goddesses, as popularly known as ‘Pratima’ are made.

Kumortuli is the nucleus within the city of Kolkata where the timeless creativity unleashes like a laser on a steel sheet.

Where is Kumortuli?

Kumortuli from Ballygunge place, by gautam lahiri — *The route map, of 10 kms from our home*

We will provide a brief history of the idols that embellish these pandals.

Readers can hop into a car, or a bus, and make a beeline for a place called “Kumartuli”, located near the eastern bank of Hooghly river that washes the Central-Northern sections of Kolkata.

This is a two to three kilometers stretch where families of potters stay. Potters are known as “Kumars”; the word, “Toli” signifies the area.

An extremely old building of north kolkata, perhaps more than 100 years old, Kolkata by gautam lahiri — *Look at that old building of north Kolkata,*
*entrapped with a Peepal tree* as old as the house

On a sultry Sunday of September, about a month before the celebrations, my Swift took about forty five minutes to drive us down through the older parts of the Kolkata city.

Parking was a challenge as the Chitpur road was narrow and all the modes of transport remained parked at will.

Scores of pigeons on the Chitpur road, at Kumartoli, Kolkata by gautam lahiri — *We had parked near a scores of pigeons*
*feasting near the old Chitpur road*

The entire area was a labyrinth of extremely interconnected narrow roads, or perhaps lanes would be more appropriate as you may get to see a same layout in Benaras or Varanasi, in the state of Uttar Pradesh, India.

World of idol making

The narrow roads and lanes of Kumartoli, north kolkata by gautam lahiri — *The narrow roads and lanes that connect the river*
*and the Chitpur road around which the industry thrives*

Kumartuli sits between the two very old localities of Sovabazar and Ahiritola of Kolkata city.

As we moved from one shade to the other, in our quest to see the artistic fabrications, we soon found that the complete auxiliary support industry to the idol makers too existed in the Kumortuli area.

As you will find out that idols, are heavily decorated with a sea of equipment – bangles, necklaces, colorful crowns, saris or dresses.

All of them co-existed and incredibly promoted the massive effort of idol assembly.

Idols being painted at Kumartoli, north Kolkata by gautam lahiri — *Idols getting their shapes and paints at Kumartoli*

Origins of Kumartoli

I tried meeting the experienced and senior potters and unearthed a vast history that existed behind the idol industry.

The idol making dates back during the foundation of the British rule in India.

Following the defeat of Siraj-ud-Daullah, the then nawab of Bengal in 1757 by Lord Clive, at Plassey; the Englishman wanted to pay his homage to the Goddess, and was advised by an influential British sympathizer, Sri Nabakrishna Deb of Sovabazar to offer prayers at the Durga puja held at his palace.

These idols initially hailed from a place called, Krishnanagar, in Bengal. Clay was used as the main ingredient, taken off from the river banks.

Later on, the potters migrated to Kumartoli and ever since 18^th century, they have lived and blossomed for generations.

Idols being given the shape at Kumartoli, north Kolkata by gautam lahiri — *A potter shapes the Ganesha’s head*
*with his dexterous hands*

These potter families were supported by the local noblemen or, ‘zamindars’ as they were called in the olden days.

Back in those days, an intricate social structure existed between the idol making endeavors and the nationalism, that overtook the British supremacy by the mid-20^th century.

Drawing boards to idols

Idols being given shape at Kumartoli, north Kolkata by gautam lahiri — *The experienced potter curates the lion*
*at the base of the Durga idol*

There are stages that these potters religiously follow – It all starts with an incredible story –

The potters with the help of priests visit the nearby prostitute quarters.

A prostitute willfully gives the clay from her house to the potter for idol making. — *The potter accepts the clay with reverence from*
*a prostitute for the idols to begin*

They ask for the clay or the top soil, mud from the porch or courtyards of their quarters’. They accept the clay only when the lady willfully agrees to gift it and is known as sacred clay.

I was moved to know that prostitutes remain largely respected and made inclusive in the Durga puja celebrations.

Is n’t that amazing!

Next, comes the bamboos ferried by boats, and trucks that are intertwined and made to form the assembly that helps the idols stand erect.

The potter draws the eyes of a Durga idol at kumartoli, north Kolkata by gautam lahiri — *The potter draws the eyes of the Durga idol*

On the first day of the 15-day period, “Mahalaya”, the potters draw the eyes of the goddess.

The succeeding stages include, using dried straw that gives the figure of goddess’s body parts, like the limbs, main body.

The idol frame, filled with dry hay forms the shape before the paint comes over by gautam lahiri — *The idol frame, filled with dry hay forms*
*the shape before the paint comes over*

They are then painted with various colors.

Predominantly, I saw white and yellow standing out. Pink, red, were also used.

The entire model when completed, is dried in the sun. The last stage includes, putting dresses, ornaments, weapons, and are ready to ship.

Potters paint the idols to give it life at kumartoli, north kolkata by gautam lahiri — *Potters paint the idols to give it life at Kumartoli*

Kumartoli evolves

I was surprised when I wanted to take pictures, the potters asked for money.

They were not really happy that the Durga Puja festival had ,of late, started attracting corporate support for the pandal makers. But no such support came their way.

The brilliance and extraordinary “pandal” creations that we see now a days meant, that the creators are handsomely remunerated, whereas the potters do not make money.

This challenge has made a shift in the interest levels of the youngsters of these potter families.

At various stages of the idol build out, at Kumartoli, North Kolkata by gautam lahiri — *The Durga family at the various stages*
*of its development at Kumartoli*

They are departing from this age old trade. We did come across a few old craftsmen, their sorrowful eyes told us the pathos they held with the changing times.

This can only be addressed by today’s generation alpha who can bring these superb and timeworn skills to the forefront.

The finished idols are now being given dress, at Kumartoli by gautam lahiri — *The finished idols are now being given dress,*
*and ornaments at Kumartoli*

As the day progressed, the sun became harsher by the hour. Drenched to the skin, we thought of pulling the curtains.

Mid-morning brunch

The final Durga idol, finished at Kumartoli, north kolkata by gautam lahiri — *The final product after all the designs,*
*carvings – the beautiful Durga family*

The old chitpur road, at Kumartoli, north kolkata by gautam lahiri — *The old Chitpur road that cuts through Kumartoli*

The famous club 'kachori' of north kolkata, at Kumartoli by gautam lahiri — *The famous club “kachori” of north Kolkata*

Northern parts of Kolkata have fabulous food joints, some of them are hundred plus years old, and spew out devastatingly tasty north Indian breakfasts.

A large part of the population here, are from Bihar, Uttar Pradesh and have settled for ages.

As the exciting excursion of historical proportions came to an end, we were famished beyond words.

We hopped in to our Swift and parked in front of one of the many restaurants that dot the Chitpur road.

The most tasty Gujrathi cuisine 'Dhokla' by gautam lahiri — *The most tasty Gujrathi cuisine ‘Dhokla’*

After a hearty meal, we drove home with the memories of the idols, the potters and the fascinating history that holds this intriguing place.

Inference

Kumartoli is a historical location in the northern parts of Kolkata city, India
You must visit in the months of August-September when the idols are created or finishing touches are given
Prepare yourself for a very humid experience as the weather during that period is not friendly
Start early to beat the heat
Car used: Maruti Swift Diesel 1.2 L, Diesel used:.7 liter
Pocket pinch – Rs.65 diesel, parking: Rs.20 per hour, Potter tips:Rs.500, Breakfast:Rs.350

SPITFIRE GAUTAM

“Live your life by a compass, not a clock” – Stephen Covey